The Florida Home Maintenance Calendar: What a Naples Home Needs, Month by Month

A Florida house is not maintained like a house anywhere else. Salt, humidity, ultraviolet light and a six-month storm season set the schedule here — and almost every expensive problem I see in a Southwest Florida home was a cheap problem on an earlier date. A drain line. A corroded fastener. An insurance policy read in April instead of July.

This is the whole year in one place: 65 tasks across 14 systems, each one saying what to do and why it matters here rather than in a generic national checklist. Subscribe to the calendar and it lands on your phone on the right date. Or print the PDF and put it in a drawer. (General education only — not legal, tax, financial, or insurance advice. Verify requirements with your association, your carrier, and Collier County.)

Two tracks — pick the one that matches your home

A home lived in year-round and a home that sits closed for months are not the same maintenance problem, and mixing them produces a checklist that serves neither.

Get the calendar

What each month is really for

The keystone items — the ones where money or a deadline rides on it.

Month	The things that matter	Total items
January	Homestead exemption — filing deadline March 1 Annual home audit — the once-a-year sit-down	12
February	Clean, re-sand and seal pavers	10
March	Stucco inspection walk Smoke and CO alarm batteries — spring	12
April	A/C professional service — before the heat Annual roof inspection Insurance review — do this BEFORE June 1 Annual termite inspection Closing the house up — the departure checklist Set the home watch scope of work in writing	19
May	Inspect lanai screens and cage fasteners Trim trees back from the house — before storm season Test shutters, panels and impact hardware Generator service and fuel Closing the house up — the departure checklist Storm plan for a home that will be empty	23
June	Routine month	11
July	Routine month	12
August	TRIM notice arrives — read it	13
September	Routine month	16
October	Opening the house back up — the return checklist	16
November	Smoke and CO alarm batteries — fall Review the association budget and dues Property tax bill — pay in November for the maximum discount Opening the house back up — the return checklist	19
December	Routine month	8

The full year, month by month

January

Taxes & deadlines

• ❗ Homestead exemption — filing deadline March 1 (year-round homes) — If this became your permanent residence last year and you have not yet filed, file with the Collier County Property Appraiser. The statutory filing deadline is March 1. If you already have the exemption it renews automatically — but confirm the renewal card is correct, and check whether you qualify for anything additional. If you sold another Florida homestead, ask about portability of your accumulated Save Our Homes benefit.

Association & records

• ❗ Annual home audit — the once-a-year sit-down — One hour, once a year, on the things that are not maintenance but cost more than maintenance. Insurance: what did the premium do, and did coverage change? Association: dues, reserves, assessments. Taxes: exemptions correct, assessment reasonable. Vendors: are you still paying a fair rate for pest, pool, lawn, and pest bond, or has it drifted up on autopilot? Warranties: what is still in force and what expired quietly? Equipment ages: how old are the roof, the A/C, and the water heater, and when should each be budgeted for? Records: is the vendor list, the permit history, and the document file current and somewhere your family could find it? Permits: check the county record for any open or unclosed permit on the property.
• ○ Architectural approval before any exterior change — Submit and get written approval before starting exterior paint, roof replacement or cleaning, landscaping changes, fencing, screening, storm protection, satellite dishes, or driveway work. Keep the approval letter with your records permanently.
• ○ Update the vendor and equipment record — One page, kept current: every trade you use with phone numbers and account numbers; the make, model, serial number and install date of the A/C, water heater, roof, pool equipment, and appliances; warranty expiry dates; and the association and insurance contacts. Keep a copy off-site.

Cooling & air

• ● A/C condensate drain line flush — Pour about a cup of distilled white vinegar down the condensate drain access on the air handler. Confirm the line is draining and the pan is dry. A time-release pan tablet at the same time keeps the line from re-clogging.
• ● Change the A/C air filter (year-round homes) — Replace the return-air filter. Write the size on the filter housing so you never have to measure again. Monthly during the cooling season; every 60–90 days is usually enough in a lightly used home.

Water systems

• ● Flush the water heater — Drain several gallons from the tank valve until it runs clear. Check the temperature and pressure relief valve while you are there. Inspect the anode rod every few years on a tank unit.
• ● Replace RO and sediment filters (year-round homes) — Carbon and sediment filters roughly every six months; the RO membrane roughly every two years. Whole-home sediment filters on the same six-month cycle.
• ○ Check water softener salt (year-round homes) — Keep the brine tank at least half full. Break up any salt bridge — a hard crust that spans the tank and leaves an empty space underneath while looking full from the top.

Plumbing

• ● Run water in unused fixtures (closed-up homes) — Run every sink, shower, tub, and toilet that is not in regular use for a minute or two to refill the traps. A splash of mineral oil on top of the water in a trap slows evaporation if the home will sit for months. Put this on the home watch scope of work if you are not here.

Safety

• ○ Test GFCI outlets and breakers (year-round homes) — Press test, confirm the outlet cuts power, press reset. Cover the kitchen, bathrooms, garage, exterior, and pool equipment outlets.

Exterior & hardscape

• ○ Pool service and chemistry — Weekly service in almost every case. Confirm your service is also checking the filter pressure, cleaning the pump basket, and reporting on the heater — not only balancing chemistry.

February

Association & records

• ○ Architectural approval before any exterior change — Submit and get written approval before starting exterior paint, roof replacement or cleaning, landscaping changes, fencing, screening, storm protection, satellite dishes, or driveway work. Keep the approval letter with your records permanently.

Cooling & air

• ● A/C condensate drain line flush — Pour about a cup of distilled white vinegar down the condensate drain access on the air handler. Confirm the line is draining and the pan is dry. A time-release pan tablet at the same time keeps the line from re-clogging.
• ● Change the A/C air filter (year-round homes) — Replace the return-air filter. Write the size on the filter housing so you never have to measure again. Monthly during the cooling season; every 60–90 days is usually enough in a lightly used home.

Water systems

• ○ Check water softener salt (year-round homes) — Keep the brine tank at least half full. Break up any salt bridge — a hard crust that spans the tank and leaves an empty space underneath while looking full from the top.

Plumbing

• ● Run water in unused fixtures (closed-up homes) — Run every sink, shower, tub, and toilet that is not in regular use for a minute or two to refill the traps. A splash of mineral oil on top of the water in a trap slows evaporation if the home will sit for months. Put this on the home watch scope of work if you are not here.
• ○ Clean the garbage disposal (year-round homes) — Ice cubes and citrus peel, or a purpose-made cleaner. Never put a hand in it.

Exterior & hardscape

• ❗ Clean, re-sand and seal pavers — Clean first, then re-sand the joints with polymeric sand, then seal — in that order, on a dry forecast. Every two to three years for a sealed driveway; the joint sand needs topping up more often. Address any settled or lifted paver that has become a trip edge while the sand is out.
• ○ Pool service and chemistry — Weekly service in almost every case. Confirm your service is also checking the filter pressure, cleaning the pump basket, and reporting on the heater — not only balancing chemistry.
• ○ Pressure wash walks, drive and lanai — Hard surfaces and the pool deck. Keep pressure off the stucco itself — soft-wash the walls instead.

Pests

• ○ Quarterly pest service — Exterior treatment quarterly, interior as needed. Confirm the service is also checking for rodent entry and wasp nests in the soffits and lanai, not only spraying a perimeter band.

March

Association & records

• ○ Architectural approval before any exterior change — Submit and get written approval before starting exterior paint, roof replacement or cleaning, landscaping changes, fencing, screening, storm protection, satellite dishes, or driveway work. Keep the approval letter with your records permanently.

Roof & structure

• ❗ Stucco inspection walk — Walk the full perimeter in raking morning or evening light, when defects cast shadows. WHAT IS NORMAL: fine hairline cracks, generally under 1/16 inch, from ordinary curing and thermal movement. WHAT IS NOT: cracks wider than about 1/16 inch; diagonal cracks running from window and door corners; stair-step cracking that follows the block joints; horizontal cracks; any bulge, blister, or soft spot; rust staining bleeding through; and a hollow or drummy sound when you tap the wall with a knuckle. Photograph anything you find, mark the date, and compare next year — a crack that grows is a different problem from a crack that sits still.
• ○ Assess exterior paint condition — Look for chalking (color rubbing off on your hand), fading on the south and west elevations, and any peeling or blistering. Most Florida exteriors need repainting somewhere in the seven-to-ten-year range; sun-exposed elevations go first. Get association architectural approval on color before any work starts.
• ○ Roof soft-wash / cleaning — Every one to two years depending on tree cover and exposure. Insist on a low-pressure soft wash. High-pressure washing strips granules from shingles and cracks tile.

Cooling & air

• ● A/C condensate drain line flush — Pour about a cup of distilled white vinegar down the condensate drain access on the air handler. Confirm the line is draining and the pan is dry. A time-release pan tablet at the same time keeps the line from re-clogging.
• ● Change the A/C air filter (year-round homes) — Replace the return-air filter. Write the size on the filter housing so you never have to measure again. Monthly during the cooling season; every 60–90 days is usually enough in a lightly used home.

Water systems

• ○ Check water softener salt (year-round homes) — Keep the brine tank at least half full. Break up any salt bridge — a hard crust that spans the tank and leaves an empty space underneath while looking full from the top.

Plumbing

• ● Run water in unused fixtures (closed-up homes) — Run every sink, shower, tub, and toilet that is not in regular use for a minute or two to refill the traps. A splash of mineral oil on top of the water in a trap slows evaporation if the home will sit for months. Put this on the home watch scope of work if you are not here.

Safety

• ❗ Smoke and CO alarm batteries — spring — Change every battery and press the test button on every alarm. Check the manufacture date printed on the back of each unit — the alarm itself expires, typically at about ten years, regardless of the battery. Replace any expired unit, and confirm you have carbon monoxide detection if there is gas, a fireplace, or an attached garage.

Exterior & hardscape

• ○ Pool service and chemistry — Weekly service in almost every case. Confirm your service is also checking the filter pressure, cleaning the pump basket, and reporting on the heater — not only balancing chemistry.

Landscape

• ● Irrigation system check — Run each zone manually. Look for broken or blocked heads, heads spraying the house or the street, and dry patches. Test the rain sensor by wetting it and confirming the system skips. Adjust run times seasonally — the rainy season needs far less supplemental water than March does. Check your current watering-day restrictions with your utility or the water management district; they change.

Interior

• ○ Appliance service round (year-round homes) — Refrigerator condenser coils and water filter, dishwasher filter and spray arms, range hood filter, and the washing machine gasket and drum.

April

Insurance & risk

• ❗ Insurance review — do this BEFORE June 1 — Sit down with your agent and read the actual declarations page. Confirm: (1) your separate hurricane or windstorm deductible, which is usually a percentage of the dwelling coverage rather than a flat dollar figure — work out what that is in real dollars; (2) whether your dwelling limit still reflects what it would cost to rebuild today, not what you paid; (3) whether you carry flood at all, because it is a separate policy and a standard homeowners policy does not cover it; (4) your screen enclosure and pool cage coverage, which is frequently limited or excluded; (5) law and ordinance coverage; and (6) any occupancy or vacancy condition if the home sits empty for extended periods.
• ● Wind mitigation and 4-point inspection status — Check the date on your last wind mitigation inspection report. Carriers generally accept one for about five years. If yours has lapsed, or if you have replaced the roof, added impact windows, or improved roof-to-wall connections since the last one, get a new inspection — the credits can be significant. Older homes may also need a 4-point inspection at renewal.

Closed-up homes

• ❗ Closing the house up — the departure checklist — WATER: shut off the main, or at minimum the supply to the water heater and the laundry. Set an electric water heater to vacation or switch it off at the breaker. AIR: this is the one that matters — do not switch the A/C off. Set it around 78–80°F, or better, set a humidistat or smart thermostat to hold humidity at roughly 55–58% and let it cycle as needed. TRAPS: fill every drain and add a little mineral oil to slow evaporation. Flush toilets and shut their supply. KITCHEN: empty the refrigerator, and either leave it running or clean it, switch it off, and prop the doors open. ELECTRICAL: unplug electronics and small appliances, leave the refrigerator and the A/C on. EXTERIOR: bring in everything loose from the lanai and pool deck. Arrange storm protection now if the home will sit through hurricane season. ADMIN: hold the mail, notify the association and gate, tell your insurer how long the home will be unoccupied, arrange pool and lawn service, book the home watch, and leave a key and the alarm code with someone local. Photograph every room on the way out.
• ❗ Set the home watch scope of work in writing — Agree in writing what is actually being checked and how often. A good scope includes: interior humidity and thermostat reading recorded each visit; every ceiling, window head and under-sink area checked for staining or damp; all traps run; the A/C drain pan and filter checked; the water heater and laundry area checked; the electrical panel checked for tripped breakers; the exterior walked including the roof line, lanai and pool cage; mail and packages cleared; and a dated, photographed written report sent after every single visit. Weekly is the standard worth paying for. Confirm the company carries liability insurance, and confirm separately with your own insurer what inspection interval your policy requires while the home is unoccupied.

Association & records

• ○ Architectural approval before any exterior change — Submit and get written approval before starting exterior paint, roof replacement or cleaning, landscaping changes, fencing, screening, storm protection, satellite dishes, or driveway work. Keep the approval letter with your records permanently.

Roof & structure

• ❗ Annual roof inspection — From the ground with binoculars, or by a licensed roofer. On tile: slipped, cracked, or missing barrels and caps, and any exposed underlayment. On shingle: lifted, curled, or missing shingles and granule loss in the gutters. On any roof: flashing at every penetration — vents, skylights, chimney, and the valleys.
• ● Re-caulk windows, doors and penetrations — Check the sealant around every window and door frame, hose bib, dryer vent, light fixture, and any place a wire or pipe passes through the wall. Cut out anything cracked, hardened, or pulling away and replace it with a quality exterior sealant.
• ○ Inspect soffit and fascia — Look for gaps, sagging panels, insect entry, and staining. Confirm soffit vents are not painted shut or blocked by insulation.

Cooling & air

• ❗ A/C professional service — before the heat — Full service call: coil cleaning, refrigerant charge check, electrical connections, capacitor test, blower wheel, drain line, and thermostat calibration. Book it in early spring — by June the good companies are booked solid on emergency calls.
• ● A/C condensate drain line flush — Pour about a cup of distilled white vinegar down the condensate drain access on the air handler. Confirm the line is draining and the pan is dry. A time-release pan tablet at the same time keeps the line from re-clogging.
• ● Change the A/C air filter (year-round homes) — Replace the return-air filter. Write the size on the filter housing so you never have to measure again. Monthly during the cooling season; every 60–90 days is usually enough in a lightly used home.
• ○ Clean the outdoor condenser coil — Kill power at the disconnect first. Rinse the outdoor coil from the inside out with a hose, or use a foaming coil cleaner. Keep shrubs and fencing at least two feet clear on all sides.
• ○ Test the A/C float / safety switch — Lift the float in the drain pan or secondary line and confirm the system shuts off. If it does not, get it repaired before the next humid stretch.

Water systems

• ○ Check water softener salt (year-round homes) — Keep the brine tank at least half full. Break up any salt bridge — a hard crust that spans the tank and leaves an empty space underneath while looking full from the top.

Plumbing

• ● Run water in unused fixtures (closed-up homes) — Run every sink, shower, tub, and toilet that is not in regular use for a minute or two to refill the traps. A splash of mineral oil on top of the water in a trap slows evaporation if the home will sit for months. Put this on the home watch scope of work if you are not here.

Safety

• ○ Test GFCI outlets and breakers (year-round homes) — Press test, confirm the outlet cuts power, press reset. Cover the kitchen, bathrooms, garage, exterior, and pool equipment outlets.
• ○ Test garage door safety reverse — Put a roll of paper towel in the door’s path and close it — the door must reverse on contact. Then wave an object through the photo-eye beam while closing. Lubricate the rollers, hinges, and springs. Learn the manual release.

Exterior & hardscape

• ○ Pool service and chemistry — Weekly service in almost every case. Confirm your service is also checking the filter pressure, cleaning the pump basket, and reporting on the heater — not only balancing chemistry.

Pests

• ❗ Annual termite inspection — Have the inspection done and keep the report. If you carry a termite bond, confirm it is current and know exactly what it covers — retreatment only, or repair as well, and up to what limit. Watch year-round for mud tubes on the foundation and slab edge, small piles of what looks like sawdust or pepper near woodwork, discarded wings on window sills, and any wood that sounds hollow.

May

Insurance & risk

• ● Photograph the home inventory — Walk every room with your phone recording. Open closets, cabinets, and drawers. Narrate as you go. Photograph serial numbers on major equipment, the roof, and each elevation of the exterior. Store it somewhere that is not in the house — cloud storage, or with family out of the area.

Storm readiness

• ❗ Generator service and fuel — Annual service on a standby unit: oil, filters, battery, and a load test. Confirm the weekly self-test is still running and that you know what it sounds like. For a portable unit, run it, change the oil, check the cords, and stabilize or rotate the stored fuel. Confirm propane tank levels and know your refill supplier.
• ❗ Test shutters, panels and impact hardware — Actually deploy them, do not just look at them. Count your panels against your openings and confirm every one is labelled for the window it fits. Check that you have all the wing nuts and bolts, that the tracks and anchors are not corroded, and that accordion and roll-down units run freely — lubricate if not. If you have impact glass, confirm you know which openings are and are not protected. Store panels where they can be reached without moving everything in the garage.
• ● Refresh the storm supply kit — Water, non-perishable food, medications, batteries, flashlights, a battery or crank radio, chargers and power banks, cash in small bills, and paper copies of insurance policies and identification. Check expiry dates on everything from last year. Fill prescriptions early in the season.

Closed-up homes

• ❗ Closing the house up — the departure checklist — WATER: shut off the main, or at minimum the supply to the water heater and the laundry. Set an electric water heater to vacation or switch it off at the breaker. AIR: this is the one that matters — do not switch the A/C off. Set it around 78–80°F, or better, set a humidistat or smart thermostat to hold humidity at roughly 55–58% and let it cycle as needed. TRAPS: fill every drain and add a little mineral oil to slow evaporation. Flush toilets and shut their supply. KITCHEN: empty the refrigerator, and either leave it running or clean it, switch it off, and prop the doors open. ELECTRICAL: unplug electronics and small appliances, leave the refrigerator and the A/C on. EXTERIOR: bring in everything loose from the lanai and pool deck. Arrange storm protection now if the home will sit through hurricane season. ADMIN: hold the mail, notify the association and gate, tell your insurer how long the home will be unoccupied, arrange pool and lawn service, book the home watch, and leave a key and the alarm code with someone local. Photograph every room on the way out.
• ❗ Storm plan for a home that will be empty — Decide now, in writing, who deploys shutters if a storm threatens while you are away, and confirm they can physically get to the property and through the gate. Confirm who will inspect afterwards and report. Leave your insurer’s claim number, your policy number, and your contractor contacts with that person. Understand that after a major storm access to the area may be restricted for days.
• ● Confirm humidity readings while the home sits empty — Read the report, or check a remote sensor. You want interior humidity holding in the mid-50s and no upward drift. A rising trend means the system is not keeping up — investigate before it becomes visible.

Association & records

• ○ Architectural approval before any exterior change — Submit and get written approval before starting exterior paint, roof replacement or cleaning, landscaping changes, fencing, screening, storm protection, satellite dishes, or driveway work. Keep the approval letter with your records permanently.

Roof & structure

• ● Clear gutters and downspouts — Clear both times: once before the summer rains, once after. Confirm downspouts discharge well away from the foundation.

Cooling & air

• ● A/C condensate drain line flush — Pour about a cup of distilled white vinegar down the condensate drain access on the air handler. Confirm the line is draining and the pan is dry. A time-release pan tablet at the same time keeps the line from re-clogging.
• ● Change the A/C air filter (year-round homes) — Replace the return-air filter. Write the size on the filter housing so you never have to measure again. Monthly during the cooling season; every 60–90 days is usually enough in a lightly used home.
• ○ Check indoor humidity — A cheap hygrometer is enough. You are looking for roughly 45–55% indoor relative humidity. Persistent readings above 60% mean the system is not dehumidifying properly — usually an oversized unit short-cycling, a dirty coil, or a duct leak pulling in attic air.

Water systems

• ● Exercise the main water shut-off — Find the main shut-off, turn it fully off and back on, and make sure everyone in the household knows where it is. Do the same for the irrigation shut-off.
• ○ Check water softener salt (year-round homes) — Keep the brine tank at least half full. Break up any salt bridge — a hard crust that spans the tank and leaves an empty space underneath while looking full from the top.
• ○ Inspect washing machine hoses — Look for bulges, rust at the crimps, and dampness. Replace rubber hoses roughly every five years, or switch to braided stainless.
• ○ Whole-home leak check — With every fixture off, watch the water meter for fifteen minutes. Any movement means a leak. Check under every sink, around toilet bases, and at the water heater for staining or damp.

Plumbing

• ● Run water in unused fixtures (closed-up homes) — Run every sink, shower, tub, and toilet that is not in regular use for a minute or two to refill the traps. A splash of mineral oil on top of the water in a trap slows evaporation if the home will sit for months. Put this on the home watch scope of work if you are not here.
• ○ Clean the garbage disposal (year-round homes) — Ice cubes and citrus peel, or a purpose-made cleaner. Never put a hand in it.

Exterior & hardscape

• ❗ Inspect lanai screens and cage fasteners — Check every screen panel for tears and loose spline. Then check the structure itself: walk the cage and look at the screws and anchors, especially where the frame meets the house and the deck. Replace any fastener showing rust bleed. Confirm the door closes and latches.
• ○ Pool service and chemistry — Weekly service in almost every case. Confirm your service is also checking the filter pressure, cleaning the pump basket, and reporting on the heater — not only balancing chemistry.

Landscape

• ❗ Trim trees back from the house — before storm season — Clear all limbs overhanging the roof and any branch within striking distance of the structure. Remove deadwood. Have palms trimmed properly — take the dead fronds and seed pods, and do not accept a severe ‘hurricane cut’ that strips the crown back to a few upright fronds.
• ○ Check the fertilizer ordinance before applying — Collier County and several municipalities restrict nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizer application during the summer rainy months. Confirm the current window and the current rules with Collier County or your municipality before you or your lawn service applies anything.

Pests

• ○ Quarterly pest service — Exterior treatment quarterly, interior as needed. Confirm the service is also checking for rodent entry and wasp nests in the soffits and lanai, not only spraying a perimeter band.

June

Storm readiness

• ○ Secure or store loose exterior items — When a storm is forecast: patio furniture, planters, grills, umbrellas, and anything on the lanai or pool deck comes inside or into the pool. Take down anything mounted that can come loose.

Closed-up homes

• ● Confirm humidity readings while the home sits empty — Read the report, or check a remote sensor. You want interior humidity holding in the mid-50s and no upward drift. A rising trend means the system is not keeping up — investigate before it becomes visible.

Association & records

• ○ Architectural approval before any exterior change — Submit and get written approval before starting exterior paint, roof replacement or cleaning, landscaping changes, fencing, screening, storm protection, satellite dishes, or driveway work. Keep the approval letter with your records permanently.

Roof & structure

• ○ Post-storm roof and exterior check — After any named storm or severe squall: walk the perimeter, photograph anything displaced, and check ceilings and window heads for fresh staining. Document with dated photographs before any repair.

Cooling & air

• ● A/C condensate drain line flush — Pour about a cup of distilled white vinegar down the condensate drain access on the air handler. Confirm the line is draining and the pan is dry. A time-release pan tablet at the same time keeps the line from re-clogging.
• ● Change the A/C air filter (year-round homes) — Replace the return-air filter. Write the size on the filter housing so you never have to measure again. Monthly during the cooling season; every 60–90 days is usually enough in a lightly used home.
• ○ Check indoor humidity — A cheap hygrometer is enough. You are looking for roughly 45–55% indoor relative humidity. Persistent readings above 60% mean the system is not dehumidifying properly — usually an oversized unit short-cycling, a dirty coil, or a duct leak pulling in attic air.

Water systems

• ○ Check water softener salt (year-round homes) — Keep the brine tank at least half full. Break up any salt bridge — a hard crust that spans the tank and leaves an empty space underneath while looking full from the top.

Plumbing

• ● Run water in unused fixtures (closed-up homes) — Run every sink, shower, tub, and toilet that is not in regular use for a minute or two to refill the traps. A splash of mineral oil on top of the water in a trap slows evaporation if the home will sit for months. Put this on the home watch scope of work if you are not here.

Exterior & hardscape

• ○ Pool service and chemistry — Weekly service in almost every case. Confirm your service is also checking the filter pressure, cleaning the pump basket, and reporting on the heater — not only balancing chemistry.

Landscape

• ● Irrigation system check — Run each zone manually. Look for broken or blocked heads, heads spraying the house or the street, and dry patches. Test the rain sensor by wetting it and confirming the system skips. Adjust run times seasonally — the rainy season needs far less supplemental water than March does. Check your current watering-day restrictions with your utility or the water management district; they change.

July

Storm readiness

• ○ Secure or store loose exterior items — When a storm is forecast: patio furniture, planters, grills, umbrellas, and anything on the lanai or pool deck comes inside or into the pool. Take down anything mounted that can come loose.

Closed-up homes

• ● Confirm humidity readings while the home sits empty — Read the report, or check a remote sensor. You want interior humidity holding in the mid-50s and no upward drift. A rising trend means the system is not keeping up — investigate before it becomes visible.

Association & records

• ○ Architectural approval before any exterior change — Submit and get written approval before starting exterior paint, roof replacement or cleaning, landscaping changes, fencing, screening, storm protection, satellite dishes, or driveway work. Keep the approval letter with your records permanently.

Roof & structure

• ○ Post-storm roof and exterior check — After any named storm or severe squall: walk the perimeter, photograph anything displaced, and check ceilings and window heads for fresh staining. Document with dated photographs before any repair.

Cooling & air

• ● A/C condensate drain line flush — Pour about a cup of distilled white vinegar down the condensate drain access on the air handler. Confirm the line is draining and the pan is dry. A time-release pan tablet at the same time keeps the line from re-clogging.
• ● Change the A/C air filter (year-round homes) — Replace the return-air filter. Write the size on the filter housing so you never have to measure again. Monthly during the cooling season; every 60–90 days is usually enough in a lightly used home.
• ○ Check indoor humidity — A cheap hygrometer is enough. You are looking for roughly 45–55% indoor relative humidity. Persistent readings above 60% mean the system is not dehumidifying properly — usually an oversized unit short-cycling, a dirty coil, or a duct leak pulling in attic air.

Water systems

• ● Replace RO and sediment filters (year-round homes) — Carbon and sediment filters roughly every six months; the RO membrane roughly every two years. Whole-home sediment filters on the same six-month cycle.
• ○ Check water softener salt (year-round homes) — Keep the brine tank at least half full. Break up any salt bridge — a hard crust that spans the tank and leaves an empty space underneath while looking full from the top.

Plumbing

• ● Run water in unused fixtures (closed-up homes) — Run every sink, shower, tub, and toilet that is not in regular use for a minute or two to refill the traps. A splash of mineral oil on top of the water in a trap slows evaporation if the home will sit for months. Put this on the home watch scope of work if you are not here.

Safety

• ○ Test GFCI outlets and breakers (year-round homes) — Press test, confirm the outlet cuts power, press reset. Cover the kitchen, bathrooms, garage, exterior, and pool equipment outlets.

Exterior & hardscape

• ○ Pool service and chemistry — Weekly service in almost every case. Confirm your service is also checking the filter pressure, cleaning the pump basket, and reporting on the heater — not only balancing chemistry.

August

Taxes & deadlines

• ❗ TRIM notice arrives — read it — The Notice of Proposed Property Taxes arrives in August. It is not a bill. Check the assessed and market values, confirm every exemption you are entitled to is actually showing, and look at the proposed millage. If you believe the assessment is wrong, the deadline to petition the Value Adjustment Board is printed on the notice itself and it is short — read the notice the week it arrives, not in November.

Storm readiness

• ○ Secure or store loose exterior items — When a storm is forecast: patio furniture, planters, grills, umbrellas, and anything on the lanai or pool deck comes inside or into the pool. Take down anything mounted that can come loose.

Closed-up homes

• ● Confirm humidity readings while the home sits empty — Read the report, or check a remote sensor. You want interior humidity holding in the mid-50s and no upward drift. A rising trend means the system is not keeping up — investigate before it becomes visible.

Association & records

• ○ Architectural approval before any exterior change — Submit and get written approval before starting exterior paint, roof replacement or cleaning, landscaping changes, fencing, screening, storm protection, satellite dishes, or driveway work. Keep the approval letter with your records permanently.

Roof & structure

• ○ Post-storm roof and exterior check — After any named storm or severe squall: walk the perimeter, photograph anything displaced, and check ceilings and window heads for fresh staining. Document with dated photographs before any repair.

Cooling & air

• ● A/C condensate drain line flush — Pour about a cup of distilled white vinegar down the condensate drain access on the air handler. Confirm the line is draining and the pan is dry. A time-release pan tablet at the same time keeps the line from re-clogging.
• ● Change the A/C air filter (year-round homes) — Replace the return-air filter. Write the size on the filter housing so you never have to measure again. Monthly during the cooling season; every 60–90 days is usually enough in a lightly used home.
• ○ Check indoor humidity — A cheap hygrometer is enough. You are looking for roughly 45–55% indoor relative humidity. Persistent readings above 60% mean the system is not dehumidifying properly — usually an oversized unit short-cycling, a dirty coil, or a duct leak pulling in attic air.

Water systems

• ○ Check water softener salt (year-round homes) — Keep the brine tank at least half full. Break up any salt bridge — a hard crust that spans the tank and leaves an empty space underneath while looking full from the top.

Plumbing

• ● Run water in unused fixtures (closed-up homes) — Run every sink, shower, tub, and toilet that is not in regular use for a minute or two to refill the traps. A splash of mineral oil on top of the water in a trap slows evaporation if the home will sit for months. Put this on the home watch scope of work if you are not here.
• ○ Clean the garbage disposal (year-round homes) — Ice cubes and citrus peel, or a purpose-made cleaner. Never put a hand in it.

Exterior & hardscape

• ○ Pool service and chemistry — Weekly service in almost every case. Confirm your service is also checking the filter pressure, cleaning the pump basket, and reporting on the heater — not only balancing chemistry.

Pests

• ○ Quarterly pest service — Exterior treatment quarterly, interior as needed. Confirm the service is also checking for rodent entry and wasp nests in the soffits and lanai, not only spraying a perimeter band.

September

Storm readiness

• ○ Secure or store loose exterior items — When a storm is forecast: patio furniture, planters, grills, umbrellas, and anything on the lanai or pool deck comes inside or into the pool. Take down anything mounted that can come loose.

Closed-up homes

• ● Confirm humidity readings while the home sits empty — Read the report, or check a remote sensor. You want interior humidity holding in the mid-50s and no upward drift. A rising trend means the system is not keeping up — investigate before it becomes visible.

Association & records

• ○ Architectural approval before any exterior change — Submit and get written approval before starting exterior paint, roof replacement or cleaning, landscaping changes, fencing, screening, storm protection, satellite dishes, or driveway work. Keep the approval letter with your records permanently.

Roof & structure

• ○ Post-storm roof and exterior check — After any named storm or severe squall: walk the perimeter, photograph anything displaced, and check ceilings and window heads for fresh staining. Document with dated photographs before any repair.

Cooling & air

• ● A/C condensate drain line flush — Pour about a cup of distilled white vinegar down the condensate drain access on the air handler. Confirm the line is draining and the pan is dry. A time-release pan tablet at the same time keeps the line from re-clogging.
• ● Change the A/C air filter (year-round homes) — Replace the return-air filter. Write the size on the filter housing so you never have to measure again. Monthly during the cooling season; every 60–90 days is usually enough in a lightly used home.
• ○ Check indoor humidity — A cheap hygrometer is enough. You are looking for roughly 45–55% indoor relative humidity. Persistent readings above 60% mean the system is not dehumidifying properly — usually an oversized unit short-cycling, a dirty coil, or a duct leak pulling in attic air.

Water systems

• ○ Check water softener salt (year-round homes) — Keep the brine tank at least half full. Break up any salt bridge — a hard crust that spans the tank and leaves an empty space underneath while looking full from the top.

Plumbing

• ● Run water in unused fixtures (closed-up homes) — Run every sink, shower, tub, and toilet that is not in regular use for a minute or two to refill the traps. A splash of mineral oil on top of the water in a trap slows evaporation if the home will sit for months. Put this on the home watch scope of work if you are not here.
• ○ Check toilets for silent running — A few drops of food coloring in the tank. If color appears in the bowl within fifteen minutes without flushing, the flapper is leaking.

Exterior & hardscape

• ○ Pool service and chemistry — Weekly service in almost every case. Confirm your service is also checking the filter pressure, cleaning the pump basket, and reporting on the heater — not only balancing chemistry.

Landscape

• ● Irrigation system check — Run each zone manually. Look for broken or blocked heads, heads spraying the house or the street, and dry patches. Test the rain sensor by wetting it and confirming the system skips. Adjust run times seasonally — the rainy season needs far less supplemental water than March does. Check your current watering-day restrictions with your utility or the water management district; they change.
• ○ Pull mulch back from the foundation — Keep mulch a few inches clear of the stucco and off the weep screed at the base of the wall. Refresh beds but do not build them up against the house.

Pests

• ○ Seal pest and rodent entry points — Walk the exterior looking for gaps at pipe and wire penetrations, soffit joints, the garage door seal, and dryer and range vents. Seal with material that cannot be chewed through. Check the garage door bottom seal sits flat.

Interior

• ○ Appliance service round (year-round homes) — Refrigerator condenser coils and water filter, dishwasher filter and spray arms, range hood filter, and the washing machine gasket and drum.
• ○ Check grout and caulk in wet areas — Showers, tub surrounds, and around every sink. Look for missing grout, cracked or blackened caulk, and any soft spot in the surrounding wall or floor.

October

Storm readiness

• ○ Secure or store loose exterior items — When a storm is forecast: patio furniture, planters, grills, umbrellas, and anything on the lanai or pool deck comes inside or into the pool. Take down anything mounted that can come loose.

Closed-up homes

• ❗ Opening the house back up — the return checklist — Before you turn anything on, walk the house and look and smell: ceilings, window heads, under every sink, behind the toilets, and inside cabinets. A musty smell is information. Then: turn the main water back on slowly and walk the house again listening and looking for leaks. Restore the water heater and give it time. Run every tap and let the lines flush until the water is clear. Run the dishwasher and washing machine empty. Check the A/C filter and drain line and book the service call. Test the smoke alarms. Check the refrigerator ice maker and water line. Walk the roof line and the pool cage. Reset the irrigation schedule. Take the mail hold off.
• ● Confirm humidity readings while the home sits empty — Read the report, or check a remote sensor. You want interior humidity holding in the mid-50s and no upward drift. A rising trend means the system is not keeping up — investigate before it becomes visible.

Association & records

• ○ Architectural approval before any exterior change — Submit and get written approval before starting exterior paint, roof replacement or cleaning, landscaping changes, fencing, screening, storm protection, satellite dishes, or driveway work. Keep the approval letter with your records permanently.

Roof & structure

• ○ Post-storm roof and exterior check — After any named storm or severe squall: walk the perimeter, photograph anything displaced, and check ceilings and window heads for fresh staining. Document with dated photographs before any repair.

Cooling & air

• ● A/C condensate drain line flush — Pour about a cup of distilled white vinegar down the condensate drain access on the air handler. Confirm the line is draining and the pan is dry. A time-release pan tablet at the same time keeps the line from re-clogging.
• ● A/C professional service — after the season — Second visit after the hardest months. Clean the outdoor condenser coil, check the contactor, and confirm the drain line is clear before the home sits over a quieter season.
• ● Change the A/C air filter (year-round homes) — Replace the return-air filter. Write the size on the filter housing so you never have to measure again. Monthly during the cooling season; every 60–90 days is usually enough in a lightly used home.
• ○ Check indoor humidity — A cheap hygrometer is enough. You are looking for roughly 45–55% indoor relative humidity. Persistent readings above 60% mean the system is not dehumidifying properly — usually an oversized unit short-cycling, a dirty coil, or a duct leak pulling in attic air.
• ○ Test the A/C float / safety switch — Lift the float in the drain pan or secondary line and confirm the system shuts off. If it does not, get it repaired before the next humid stretch.

Water systems

• ○ Check water softener salt (year-round homes) — Keep the brine tank at least half full. Break up any salt bridge — a hard crust that spans the tank and leaves an empty space underneath while looking full from the top.

Plumbing

• ● Run water in unused fixtures (closed-up homes) — Run every sink, shower, tub, and toilet that is not in regular use for a minute or two to refill the traps. A splash of mineral oil on top of the water in a trap slows evaporation if the home will sit for months. Put this on the home watch scope of work if you are not here.

Safety

• ○ Test GFCI outlets and breakers (year-round homes) — Press test, confirm the outlet cuts power, press reset. Cover the kitchen, bathrooms, garage, exterior, and pool equipment outlets.
• ○ Test garage door safety reverse — Put a roll of paper towel in the door’s path and close it — the door must reverse on contact. Then wave an object through the photo-eye beam while closing. Lubricate the rollers, hinges, and springs. Learn the manual release.

Exterior & hardscape

• ○ Pool equipment and safety check — Clean or replace the filter media, check the heater, and inspect the pump seal. Confirm every safety barrier works: self-closing and self-latching gates, door alarms, and any safety cover.
• ○ Pool service and chemistry — Weekly service in almost every case. Confirm your service is also checking the filter pressure, cleaning the pump basket, and reporting on the heater — not only balancing chemistry.

November

Taxes & deadlines

• ❗ Property tax bill — pay in November for the maximum discount — Bills are mailed on or about November 1. Paying in November earns a 4% discount; December 3%; January 2%; February 1%; and the full amount is due in March. If your taxes are escrowed by a lender, confirm the lender is paying in November and taking the discount.

Storm readiness

• ○ Secure or store loose exterior items — When a storm is forecast: patio furniture, planters, grills, umbrellas, and anything on the lanai or pool deck comes inside or into the pool. Take down anything mounted that can come loose.

Closed-up homes

• ❗ Opening the house back up — the return checklist — Before you turn anything on, walk the house and look and smell: ceilings, window heads, under every sink, behind the toilets, and inside cabinets. A musty smell is information. Then: turn the main water back on slowly and walk the house again listening and looking for leaks. Restore the water heater and give it time. Run every tap and let the lines flush until the water is clear. Run the dishwasher and washing machine empty. Check the A/C filter and drain line and book the service call. Test the smoke alarms. Check the refrigerator ice maker and water line. Walk the roof line and the pool cage. Reset the irrigation schedule. Take the mail hold off.
• ● Confirm humidity readings while the home sits empty — Read the report, or check a remote sensor. You want interior humidity holding in the mid-50s and no upward drift. A rising trend means the system is not keeping up — investigate before it becomes visible.

Association & records

• ❗ Review the association budget and dues — Read the adopted budget when it arrives — most associations adopt for the following year in the autumn. Look at the dues change, the reserve funding level, and any line that moved sharply, particularly insurance. Read the reserve study if there is one. Note any special assessment under discussion and go to the meeting where it is voted. Keep the current governing documents, rules, and your estoppel and financial records together in one place.
• ● Condominium milestone inspection and reserve study status — If your home is in a condominium building of three stories or more, ask the association where it stands on its milestone structural inspection and its structural integrity reserve study, and what the funding plan is. Read the results when they are issued.
• ○ Architectural approval before any exterior change — Submit and get written approval before starting exterior paint, roof replacement or cleaning, landscaping changes, fencing, screening, storm protection, satellite dishes, or driveway work. Keep the approval letter with your records permanently.

Roof & structure

• ● Clear gutters and downspouts — Clear both times: once before the summer rains, once after. Confirm downspouts discharge well away from the foundation.
• ○ Post-storm roof and exterior check — After any named storm or severe squall: walk the perimeter, photograph anything displaced, and check ceilings and window heads for fresh staining. Document with dated photographs before any repair.

Cooling & air

• ● A/C condensate drain line flush — Pour about a cup of distilled white vinegar down the condensate drain access on the air handler. Confirm the line is draining and the pan is dry. A time-release pan tablet at the same time keeps the line from re-clogging.
• ● Change the A/C air filter (year-round homes) — Replace the return-air filter. Write the size on the filter housing so you never have to measure again. Monthly during the cooling season; every 60–90 days is usually enough in a lightly used home.
• ● Clean the dryer vent (year-round homes) — Clear the full duct run from the dryer to the exterior hood, not just the lint screen. Confirm the exterior flap opens freely.

Water systems

• ○ Check water softener salt (year-round homes) — Keep the brine tank at least half full. Break up any salt bridge — a hard crust that spans the tank and leaves an empty space underneath while looking full from the top.

Plumbing

• ● Run water in unused fixtures (closed-up homes) — Run every sink, shower, tub, and toilet that is not in regular use for a minute or two to refill the traps. A splash of mineral oil on top of the water in a trap slows evaporation if the home will sit for months. Put this on the home watch scope of work if you are not here.
• ○ Clean the garbage disposal (year-round homes) — Ice cubes and citrus peel, or a purpose-made cleaner. Never put a hand in it.

Safety

• ❗ Smoke and CO alarm batteries — fall — Second change of the year, on the clock change. Test every unit and vacuum the dust from the vents.
• ○ Check fire extinguishers — Gauge in the green, pin and seal intact, no corrosion. One in the kitchen and one in the garage at minimum. Confirm everyone knows where they are.

Exterior & hardscape

• ○ Pool service and chemistry — Weekly service in almost every case. Confirm your service is also checking the filter pressure, cleaning the pump basket, and reporting on the heater — not only balancing chemistry.

Pests

• ○ Quarterly pest service — Exterior treatment quarterly, interior as needed. Confirm the service is also checking for rodent entry and wasp nests in the soffits and lanai, not only spraying a perimeter band.

December

Storm readiness

• ○ End of storm season — stow and inspect — Clean and store panels dry to prevent corrosion. Note anything that was awkward or missing this year and fix it now while it is fresh. Reset the supply kit list for next May.

Association & records

• ○ Architectural approval before any exterior change — Submit and get written approval before starting exterior paint, roof replacement or cleaning, landscaping changes, fencing, screening, storm protection, satellite dishes, or driveway work. Keep the approval letter with your records permanently.

Cooling & air

• ● A/C condensate drain line flush — Pour about a cup of distilled white vinegar down the condensate drain access on the air handler. Confirm the line is draining and the pan is dry. A time-release pan tablet at the same time keeps the line from re-clogging.
• ● Change the A/C air filter (year-round homes) — Replace the return-air filter. Write the size on the filter housing so you never have to measure again. Monthly during the cooling season; every 60–90 days is usually enough in a lightly used home.

Water systems

• ○ Check water softener salt (year-round homes) — Keep the brine tank at least half full. Break up any salt bridge — a hard crust that spans the tank and leaves an empty space underneath while looking full from the top.

Plumbing

• ● Run water in unused fixtures (closed-up homes) — Run every sink, shower, tub, and toilet that is not in regular use for a minute or two to refill the traps. A splash of mineral oil on top of the water in a trap slows evaporation if the home will sit for months. Put this on the home watch scope of work if you are not here.

Exterior & hardscape

• ○ Pool service and chemistry — Weekly service in almost every case. Confirm your service is also checking the filter pressure, cleaning the pump basket, and reporting on the heater — not only balancing chemistry.

Landscape

• ● Irrigation system check — Run each zone manually. Look for broken or blocked heads, heads spraying the house or the street, and dry patches. Test the rain sensor by wetting it and confirming the system skips. Adjust run times seasonally — the rainy season needs far less supplemental water than March does. Check your current watering-day restrictions with your utility or the water management district; they change.

The eight that pay for the rest

Most of this calendar is a five-minute job on a repeating date. These are the ones where knowing what to look for is the whole value.

Stucco inspection walk

Walk the full perimeter in raking morning or evening light, when defects cast shadows. WHAT IS NORMAL: fine hairline cracks, generally under 1/16 inch, from ordinary curing and thermal movement. WHAT IS NOT: cracks wider than about 1/16 inch; diagonal cracks running from window and door corners; stair-step cracking that follows the block joints; horizontal cracks; any bulge, blister, or soft spot; rust staining bleeding through; and a hollow or drummy sound when you tap the wall with a knuckle. Photograph anything you find, mark the date, and compare next year — a crack that grows is a different problem from a crack that sits still.

Why it matters here. Stucco is a water-management system, not a waterproof shell. It is designed to shed water at the surface and drain what gets behind it. Once a crack lets water in faster than the wall can drain, it stays in the sheathing and the framing. Drummy stucco means the coat has delaminated from the substrate and is holding water behind it. Diagonal cracks at window corners are the classic early tell and the cheapest possible moment to seal.

Insurance review — do this BEFORE June 1

Sit down with your agent and read the actual declarations page. Confirm: (1) your separate hurricane or windstorm deductible, which is usually a percentage of the dwelling coverage rather than a flat dollar figure — work out what that is in real dollars; (2) whether your dwelling limit still reflects what it would cost to rebuild today, not what you paid; (3) whether you carry flood at all, because it is a separate policy and a standard homeowners policy does not cover it; (4) your screen enclosure and pool cage coverage, which is frequently limited or excluded; (5) law and ordinance coverage; and (6) any occupancy or vacancy condition if the home sits empty for extended periods.

Why it matters here. Once a storm is named and in the box, carriers stop binding new coverage and stop allowing increases — so the policy you have on the day a storm forms is the policy you are keeping. A new NFIP flood policy also generally carries a 30-day waiting period before it takes effect, which means June is already too late for that decision. The percentage wind deductible is the number that surprises people most: on a substantial dwelling limit it is a serious sum, and most owners have never converted the percentage into dollars.

Source: NFIP standard 30-day waiting period; Atlantic hurricane season June 1–Nov 30 per NOAA/National Hurricane Center.

Closing the house up — the departure checklist

WATER: shut off the main, or at minimum the supply to the water heater and the laundry. Set an electric water heater to vacation or switch it off at the breaker. AIR: this is the one that matters — do not switch the A/C off. Set it around 78–80°F, or better, set a humidistat or smart thermostat to hold humidity at roughly 55–58% and let it cycle as needed. TRAPS: fill every drain and add a little mineral oil to slow evaporation. Flush toilets and shut their supply. KITCHEN: empty the refrigerator, and either leave it running or clean it, switch it off, and prop the doors open. ELECTRICAL: unplug electronics and small appliances, leave the refrigerator and the A/C on. EXTERIOR: bring in everything loose from the lanai and pool deck. Arrange storm protection now if the home will sit through hurricane season. ADMIN: hold the mail, notify the association and gate, tell your insurer how long the home will be unoccupied, arrange pool and lawn service, book the home watch, and leave a key and the alarm code with someone local. Photograph every room on the way out.

Why it matters here. An empty Florida house is not a dormant house — it is a house with the humidity turned loose in it. The single most expensive mistake is switching the air conditioning off to save on electricity: the interior reaches outdoor humidity within days, and mold does the rest to cabinetry, drywall, upholstery, and anything paper. Running the system on a humidistat costs a fraction of the remediation. The second most expensive mistake is leaving the water on: a supply line that fails in an empty house runs at full pressure until somebody notices.

Opening the house back up — the return checklist

Before you turn anything on, walk the house and look and smell: ceilings, window heads, under every sink, behind the toilets, and inside cabinets. A musty smell is information. Then: turn the main water back on slowly and walk the house again listening and looking for leaks. Restore the water heater and give it time. Run every tap and let the lines flush until the water is clear. Run the dishwasher and washing machine empty. Check the A/C filter and drain line and book the service call. Test the smoke alarms. Check the refrigerator ice maker and water line. Walk the roof line and the pool cage. Reset the irrigation schedule. Take the mail hold off.

Why it matters here. The return walk is a leak inspection, and it is far more effective done before the water is turned on and the systems are all running and masking each other. Turning the main back on slowly, and standing still to listen, catches the failure that happened in your absence in the first ten minutes rather than the first week.

Set the home watch scope of work in writing

Agree in writing what is actually being checked and how often. A good scope includes: interior humidity and thermostat reading recorded each visit; every ceiling, window head and under-sink area checked for staining or damp; all traps run; the A/C drain pan and filter checked; the water heater and laundry area checked; the electrical panel checked for tripped breakers; the exterior walked including the roof line, lanai and pool cage; mail and packages cleared; and a dated, photographed written report sent after every single visit. Weekly is the standard worth paying for. Confirm the company carries liability insurance, and confirm separately with your own insurer what inspection interval your policy requires while the home is unoccupied.

Why it matters here. Home watch is the difference between a failure caught in days and a failure discovered in months, and the whole value is in the reporting. A visit with no written report is unverifiable. The insurance point is the one owners most often miss: many policies restrict or exclude coverage once a dwelling has been unoccupied beyond a stated period, and some require documented inspections at intervals — a stack of dated reports is what proves the condition was met.

Annual home audit — the once-a-year sit-down

One hour, once a year, on the things that are not maintenance but cost more than maintenance. Insurance: what did the premium do, and did coverage change? Association: dues, reserves, assessments. Taxes: exemptions correct, assessment reasonable. Vendors: are you still paying a fair rate for pest, pool, lawn, and pest bond, or has it drifted up on autopilot? Warranties: what is still in force and what expired quietly? Equipment ages: how old are the roof, the A/C, and the water heater, and when should each be budgeted for? Records: is the vendor list, the permit history, and the document file current and somewhere your family could find it? Permits: check the county record for any open or unclosed permit on the property.

Why it matters here. Maintenance protects the house. This hour protects the money. Two items in particular: vendor rates drift upward without anyone deciding they should, and an open permit left unclosed by a past contractor sits invisibly on the county record until it surfaces during a sale and delays a closing — at which point it is urgent and expensive. Both are cheap to find in January and painful to find later.

Annual termite inspection

Have the inspection done and keep the report. If you carry a termite bond, confirm it is current and know exactly what it covers — retreatment only, or repair as well, and up to what limit. Watch year-round for mud tubes on the foundation and slab edge, small piles of what looks like sawdust or pepper near woodwork, discarded wings on window sills, and any wood that sounds hollow.

Why it matters here. Southwest Florida carries year-round subterranean and drywood termite pressure, and neither reads the calendar. The damage is structural, it is usually excluded from homeowners insurance, and it is almost always found by an inspector rather than an owner — often at the worst possible time, which is during a buyer’s inspection on a home under contract.

Clean, re-sand and seal pavers

Clean first, then re-sand the joints with polymeric sand, then seal — in that order, on a dry forecast. Every two to three years for a sealed driveway; the joint sand needs topping up more often. Address any settled or lifted paver that has become a trip edge while the sand is out.

Why it matters here. The sand in the joints is structural — it is what locks the field of pavers together and lets it flex as one surface. Once the sand washes out, individual pavers rock, weeds and ants move into the gaps, and the field starts to spread. Sealing slows the sand loss and keeps the color from bleaching out. This is a maintenance item that visibly changes what the house is worth to a buyer standing at the curb.

Go deeper on any system

Each guide below takes one system and covers it properly — how to do the work, what good and bad look like, and when to stop and call somebody.

• Florida A/C Maintenance — the drain line, humidity targets, and what a real service call includes
• Roof, Stucco & Exterior Maintenance — which cracks matter, and why the tile is not the roof
• Water Systems & Plumbing — hard water, the untested shut-off, and finding a silent leak
• Hurricane Season Prep — the May checklist, and the June 1 deadline behind it
• Closing Up a Florida Home for the Season — both ends of the trip, plus the home watch scope of work
• Pavers, Lanai & Pool Cage — why joint sand is structural, and the fasteners that fail first
• Landscape, Irrigation & Termites — the cut to refuse, and the damage insurance will not cover
• Home Safety Checks & the Annual Audit — ten minutes of safety, and the hour that protects the money